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TOPKAPI PALACE
Topkapi is the largest and oldest palace in the world to
survive to our day. In 1924 it was turned into a museum at
Atatiirk's request. Situated on the acropolis, the site of
the first settlement in Istanbul, it commands an impressive
view of the Golden Horn, the Bosphorus and the Sea of
Marmara. The palace is a complex surrounded by 5 km of walls
and occupies an area of 700,000 sq. m at the tip of the
historical peninsula.
Following the conquest of the city in 1453, the young Sultan
Mehmet moved the capital of the empire to Istanbul, His
first palace was located in the middle of the town. The
second palace, which he built in the 1470's, was initially
called the New Palace, but in recent times it came to be
known as the Topkapi Palace. Topkapi is a classical example
of Turkish palace architecture. It consists of tree- shaded
courtyards, each serving a different purpose and opening
onto one another with monumental gates. The courtyards are
surrounded by functional buildings. From the time of its
construction, the palace developed constantly with
alterations and additions made by each sultan.
When the sultans moved to the ostentatious Dolmabahce Palace
in 1853, Topkapi lost its importance as the official royal
residence and was left to deteriorate. It finally regained
its former unpretentious beauty after fifty years of
continuous restoration in the Republican era. Most of the
objects exhibited in the palace today are unique
masterpieces.
When it was used as a palace, it served more functions than
one usually associates with royal residences. Although it
was the residence of the Sultan, the sole ruler of the
empire, it was at the same time the center of the
administrative affairs, the place where the council of
ministers met, and the treasury, mint, and state archives
were located there. The highest educational institution of
the empire, the university of the sultan and the state was
also here. Therefore it was the heart, the brain, the very
center of the Ottoman Empire. Much later, the harem (private
quarters) of the sultans was moved here too.
Of the sixteen empires founded by the Turks, the Ottoman
Empire was the longest lasting and the largest. It lasted
for 622 years ruling over the Asian, European and African
lands surrounding the Mediterranean and the Black Sea.
Peoples of different races and religions were united under
its rule. The only other empire in history that governed
such vast lands for such a long period was the Roman Empire.
Thirty-six sultans reigned during this period, and starting
from early 16th century, they also became the religious
leaders of the Islamic world as caliphs.
Capable civil servants, after completing their education in
the school in the private courtyard of the sultan, served
faithfully and successfully in the administration and
organization of the empire. Most of the viziers and grand
viziers were graduates of this school. Life started at dawn
in the palace and it was subject to strict rules and
ceremonies. Everybody had to abide by the centuries-old
customs and traditions, and these were observed rigorously
even when the empire fell into a period of decline. The
etiquette of this palace always influenced the rules of
protocol in the Western world.
The seaside mansions and pavilions of Topkapi Palace were
demolished at the end of the last century.
The different tiles, woodwork and architectural styles
displayed in Topkapi Palace reflects the development of
Turkish art and the harmonious existence of differing styles
over the centuries.
VISITING THE PALACE THE FIRST
COURTYARD
The first courtyard is entered through the so-called
Imperial Gate. The monumental fountain seen outside the gate
is a beautiful example of 18th century Turkish art. In this
courtyard there are the palace bakery, the mint, the
quarters of the palace guards, and the firewood depots. The
vegetable gardens used to occupy the terraces below. The
first building in the palace complex, the Tiled Pavilion,
and the Archeological Museum are in this courtyard, too. To
the left of the entrance is the Hagia Eirene Museum, a 6th
century Byzantine church.
THE SECOND COURTYARD
The main entrance to the Palace Museum is the second gate,
known as the Gate of Salutation. The second courtyard was
the administrative center of the state and the government.
Only the sultans could enter this yard on horseback.
Citizens with official business were allowed here, as well
as the representatives of the Janissary corps on special
paydays.
br> The reception of foreign emissaries and state ceremonies
took place in this courtyard. It is known that absolute
silence prevailed in such ceremonies, sometimes attended by
up to ten thousand people. When the sultan was present in
the event, the imperial throne was placed in front of the
gate at the other end of the courtyard, and as a
demonstration of respect; that present would stand with
their hands clasped in front. The only tower in the palace
is located here too. It was called "the Tower of Justice"
because it was the venue of the state court of justice. The
entire city and the port could be kept under observation
from this tower, the only entrance of which was from the
harem section.
THE HAREM
The harem was the private zone of the palace, where the
mother and siblings of the sultan, the other members of the
family, and the concubines and eunuchs who served this large
family lived. Until the mid-16th century the harem was
housed in the Old Palace in another part of the town. The
harem of Topkapi Palace consists of long narrow hallways and
about 400 rooms scattered around small courtyards. It was
altered and enlarged over the years.
The harem was strictly closed to outsiders, and it became
the subject of many stories over the centuries. The
concubines serving the sultan and his family were chosen
from among the most beautiful and healthy girls of different
races or they were presented to the court as gifts.
These girls came to the harem at a very early age and were
brought up under strict discipline. After they became
thoroughly acquainted with the customs of the palace, they
were separated into different groups. Those who could
attract the attention of the sultan had the chance of
becoming his wife.
There was no such title in the empire as "empress". The
sultan's mother was the sole ruler in the harem. Amid the
entire splendor and wealth, rivalry, hatred and intrigues to
get closer to the sultan were part of the daily life.
When a new sultan ascended to the throne, the harem of the
former sultan was moved to another palace. The ladies of the
harem and the chief eunuchs emerged as a political power
influencing state administration if the reigning sultan was
weak and ineffective. Still, life in the harem with all its
intrigues, good and bad parts was superior to the life style
of women of that period elsewhere.
Only a section of the harem is open to the public. It is up
to the imagination of the visitor to recreate the colorful
and lively old days in these dim hallways and empty rooms.
The tour of the harem starts with the 40-room section
allocated to the mother of the sultan. The next sections are
the large Turkish bath and the spacious, domed hall reserved
for the sultans.
There are fireplaces and fountains in all available places.
The large hall with a pool filled by interesting fountains
is decorated with exquisite 16th century tiles. It dates to
the reign of Murat III. From the end of this hall, one
enters the small library and the "fruit room" which is
embellished with paintings of fruits and flowers.
The two 16th century rooms seen at the end of the harem tour
have beautiful stained glass windows complementing the rich
wall decorations. These rooms were allocated to the crown
prince. |
THE WEAPON
COLLECTION AND THE COUNCIL HALL
The large structure next to the "council
of state" building with broad eaves was the state treasury.
This eight-domed building today houses rich collection of
old weapons in a modern exhibition.
Besides the armor and weapons used by the sultans, those
used by the members of the palace and the army is displayed
here along with weapons conquered from other countries.
The Tower of Justice rises beside the "council of state"
section. The council was composed of the viziers and
secretaries, and the grand vizier chaired the meetings.
The sultans did not participate in the meetings, but could
listen to the deliberations from a high window in one of the
walls. This window opened to the harem section and a curtain
masked it. The feasts given in honor of visiting foreign
missions took place in this hall.
THE KITCHENS AND THE PORCELAIN
COLLECTION
On the right side of the second courtyard
are the palace kitchens with twenty chimneys. Of the 12,000
pieces of Chinese and Japanese porcelain in the palace
collection, about 2,500 are on display in this section.
When these b uildings were used as kitchens, over one
thousand cooks and their assistants prepared and served
meals for the various sections of the palace.
Selected pieces of the largest such collection in the world
are displayed in a chronological order. Sections of the
kitchens have been kept as they were when in use, while
another part is allocated to porcelain and glassware
produced in Istanbul. Another section houses the collection
of silverware and European porcelain. The unique Chinese
celadons are in the room to the right. The exhibition of
blue and white, mono- and polychrome porcelain objects ends
with the Japanese porcelain collection. In the special
kitchen where sweets used to be made, everyday kitchen
utensils, coffee sets and gold-plated . copper wares are
displayed.
THE THIRD COURTYARD
The third courtyard was the private
domain of the sultan and it was entered —only by special
permission- through the Gate of Felicity, guarded by the
White Eunuchs. The imperial university, the throne room, the
treasury of the sultan and the quarters housing the sacred
relics were located in this section. The sultans received
foreign ambassadors and high government officials in the
throne room, which is directly opposite the entrance. For
security reasons those serving in the throne room were
selected from among deaf and mute persons.
The military officers who served the sultan in various
capacities were at the same time the managers of the
imperial school.
The library of Ahmet III in the center of the courtyard is
an 18th century building that is a typical example of the
harmonious blend of the baroque and Turkish architectural
styles.
THE COSTUMES
Unique collections of the sultans'
wardrobes are displayed in the section to the right of the
courtyard. There are altogether 2,500 of these handmade
costumes that were made of fabric woven on the palace looms
and preserved carefully in special chests since the 15th
century. Besides these garments embroidered with silk, gold
and silver thread, there are also silk carpets and prayer
rugs, masterpieces of Turkish art, used by the sultans.
THE TREASURY
The treasury section of the Topkapi
Palace Museum is the richest collection of its kind in the
world. All the pieces exhibited in the four rooms are
authentic originals.
Masterpieces of the Turkish art of jewelry from different
centuries and exquisite creations from the Far East, India
and Europe entrance visitors. In each room there is an
imperial throne from a different era. Ceremonial costumes,
weapons, water pipes, Turkish coffee cups and other wares,
all of them embellished with gold and precious stones are
the most important items in the first room.
The second hall is known as the Emerald Room. It contains
dazzling display of aigrettes and pendants decorated with
emeralds and other jewels. Uncut emeralds, some weighing
several kilograms each, and the famous Topkapi Dagger (the
symbol of the museum) embellished with three large emeralds
are also on display here.
The third room contains enameled objects, medals and
decorations of state presented to the sultans by foreign
monarchs, the twin solid gold candelabras each weighing 48
kilograms, and the most famous throne in the palace, the
golden throne, which the sultans used during coronations and
religious holidays. The 86-carat Spoon Maker's (or Pigot)
Diamond, one of the most famous diamonds in the world, is
also to be found here. The balcony connecting the third and
the fourth rooms offers a breathtaking view of the entrance
to the Bosphorus and the Asian coast. In the fourth room, a
magnificent throne of Indian-Persian origin is on display.
There are also many other objects encrusted with precious
stones of different sizes to captivate visitors.
THE CLOCK COLLECTION
The richest collection of clocks in the
world is exhibited in the room next to the Sacred Relics
Section. To the right of the entrance there are clocks made
by Turkish masters. These priceless wall and table clocks
and watches are from the 16th-19th centuries. Clocks of a
huge variety of makes were presented to the palace as gifts.
The largest clock in the room is one of English origin. It
is 3.5 m high and 1 m wide, and contains an organ. Some
pieces of special interest are the watches with the
portraits of Abdulmecid and Abdulaziz, and a birdcage
hanging from the dome, the underside of which is an enameled
clock.
THE SACRED RELICS
The
sacred relics of Islam were brought to the palace after the
conquest of Egypt in the 16th century and have been
preserved here since that time. This hall was used as the
throne room before it was allocated to the sacred relics.
The walls of the domed rooms are covered with tiles.
Important pieces of the collection are the swords and bow of
Mohammed and his mantle (cloak), which is kept in a
priceless box. The seal of the Prophet, hairs from his beard,
his footprint and a letter are other exhibits in the
showcases in these rooms. Also on display are one of the
first manuscripts of The Koran, the keys of the Ka'aba in
Mecca, and the swords of prominent religious personalities.
PORTRAITS OF THE SULTANS
This gallery is located in the building
with a colonnade, which stands between the Sacred Relics
Section and the Treasury and also houses the museum offices.
In the large hall, temporary exhibitions are organized from
time to time.
The Palace Museum has a rich collection of manuscripts,
books, miniatures and writing tools. Some of these rare
items are displayed in this section. Oil portraits of the
sultans adorn the walls of the balcony-shaped galleries of
the hall.
THE FOURTH COURTYARD
A passageway leads from the third to the
fourth courtyard where there are a number of pavilions set
amidst gardens. The only wooden pavilion in the complex, the
Revan and exquisitely decorated Baghdad Pavillions from the
17th century, and the last addition to the palace, the
Mecidiye K6§ku, are some of the buildings here. On the
ground floor of the last building there is a restaurant for
visitors. The terrace in front of Baghdad Pavillion is the
best place to Interior of Baghdad Pavilion (17th cent.). get
an overall view of the Golden Horn, the Galata district, and
the wonderful skyline of old Istanbul with its domes and
minarets. The gardens of the palace sloping toward the sea
have now been turned into a public park. |
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